Marine Serre will be June edition’s guest designer

Marine Serre will be the guest designer at the next Pitti Uomo show. The French designer, renowned for her regenerative, recycled fashion, will show on June 12 in Florence at the 106th edition of the world’s leading menswear show, scheduled on June 11-14. Serre will present the Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection for her ready-to-wear label, recognisable by the famous crescent moon logo.

“Marine Serre’s shows convey a special feeling. Her vision and her career, which have been on our radar for several seasons, are infused with a concentration of pride and discipline. As the athlete she was, Marine designs garments ready to overcome generational constraints and the test of time. Clothes suitable for going out into the world, beautiful to look at and touch, which speak of mental attitude and personality, of style and allure,” said in a press release Francesca Tacconi, special events coordinator at Florentine show organiser Pitti Immagine.

Serre’s work is “the result of a tenacious virtuosity, a way of tying together the needs of the present and the fabrics of the past, experimenting with the combinatorial art of upcycling, using sustainable and innovative fibres. We were captivated by Marine Serre’s precise approach to the contemporary and by the freshness of a formal reinterpretation that enhances the body, and it seemed natural to invite [her] to Florence as guest designer of the June edition. To celebrate, as well as her achievements, the official debut of her label’s men’s collection,” added Tacconi.

It will be the first time that Serre, who usually presents her collections in Paris, will stage a menswear show. In the past, Serre used to present her men’s looks with the womenswear line, but in January 2024 she decided to separate the two, devoting more space to her menswear by creating a fully fledged collection, and presenting it during the menswear season. She couldn’t dream of a better occasion for the launch than the prestigious Pitti Uomo show, where the collection will enjoy extra visibility.

Serre, 32, was born in Brive-la-Gaillarde, France, and was interested in fashion from an early age.  As a teenager, she explored her parents’ wardrobe to fashion her own individual look. After obtaining her arts diploma, in 2009 she went to Marseilles to follow a course in fashion design. Three years later, she moved to Brussels to study at the La Cambre academy, while also doing internships and work experience at couture labels Fred Sathal and On aura tout vu. She followed this with stints at ready-to-wear labels Annemie Verbeke and Alexander McQueen, and at top names like Maison Margiela, under the aegis of Matthieu Blazy, at Christian Dior with Raf Simons, and Balenciaga with Demna Gvasalia.

In 2016, after graduating from La Cambre, Serre managed to sell her first collection to The Broken Arm store in Paris. The following year, she was propelled centre-stage, having been selected as a finalist at the Hyères Festival and the LVMH Prize, which she won.

From then on, Serre has gone from strength to strength, gradually growing her label and focusing on sustainable design and manufacturing. She has developed an innovative circular approach to fashion, regenerating textile waste by collecting fabrics from unused inventory and second-hand garments, which she sorts by material type and colour, giving them a new lease of life through her patchwork creations and by recycling their fibres. Serre has jettisoned the apocalyptic vision of her early collections, gradually shifting towards chic, practical everyday fashion.

“It’s an honour for me and my team to be the Guest Designer at Pitti Uomo this season. We’re looking forward to bringing the essence of Marine Serre to Florence, combining artisanal techniques in our own unique way, and subverting expectations, putting imagination to the service of transformation,” said Serre.

A show by a talented French designer away from Paris on the eve of the Olympics could herald more of the same, especially by emerging labels concerned about the absence of buyers and organisational issues in the run-up to the Games.