At the world’s highest frozen lake marathon, Chennai’s Major Amirtharaj NS makes a mark

A snapshot from a previous edition of The Pangong Frozen Lake Marathon
| Photo Credit: Adventure Sports Foundation of Ladakh

Where the Greater Himalayas rise from the Indo-Gangetic plains to run along Pakistan and China lies a large salt lake on the roof of the world. The Pangong Tso in Ladakh, a sensitive border point at 13,862 feet with temperatures that plummet to -35 degree Celsius, is peopled only by a few locals, bar-headed geese, and crustaceans in its deep depths. The only constant that has survived for centuries in its thin air is Buddhism.

On February 25, at this remote Shangri La, The Pangong Frozen Half Marathon was held. It covered a distance of 21.9 kilometres run in a loop on the lake, 11 kilometres up and 11 down between Merak and Maan. Organised by the Ladakh Autonomous Hill Development Council and Adventure Sports Foundation of Ladakh, with help from the Army and the Indo-Tibetan Border Police, it holds the Guinness World Record for being the world’s highest frozen lake marathon. Among the 100-odd runners was Major Amirtharaj NS, a Chennai-raised Indian Army officer now posted there.

Major Amirtharaj NS
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

“I hated running,” laughs Amirtharaj on a phone call. “Running was part of my training at Sainik School, Amaravathinagar, the National Defence Academy and the Indian Military Academy. But it was basketball that was my first love.” Commissioned into the regiment of Artillery, Amirtharaj, the son of a retired Chief Engineer, TANGEDCO, and Government school teacher says the inspiration to run came from his 63-year-old father, Sathiaseelan. “I don’t come from a forces background. I was all set to be an engineer but joining the Army was a childhood passion. I excelled as a sportsperson, playing basketball, volleyball and squash at academy, Division and Command-level matches, but the push for running came from my father who has completed five half-marathons at his age,” says Amirtharaj who followed the drum, serving on the LoC, the North-East, Ambala and Jaisalmer.

What Amirtharaj says next about the training and simply surviving in these climes, where there is only 40% oxygen, can shock you. “Although I had been active for close to 12 years when I was first posted here, my BP shot up to 160/116. Army advisory includes only walking and no running at such altitude. Chilblains and frostbite are common. Three layers of clothing, balaclava and snow goggles leave you claustrophobic. Even to warm up, you need to walk four kilometres. The sun comes up at 9am and you have to condition your mind to get up and get out. Food is mostly tinned and you crave oxygen 24×7. Sudden death is a constant,” says Amirtharaj.

While the video of the run in this idyll looks exhilarating, it also seems to be the loveliest place to have a nosebleed. The marathon that saw entry restricted to seasoned runners from across the world and India was also a pitch for battlefield tourism — Galwan Valley is close — and ecological sustainability. “I came to know of the marathon in August last. I had had an ACL reconstruction but was determined to not let that get me down. A memoir and sequel by retired US Navy Seal David Goggins on mastering your mind set the pace.”

Training for his first marathon, Amirtharaj made sure his Army buddy Lakhwinder Singh was always by his side. “I ran six days a week ranging eight to 10 kilometres a day. The average temperature was -28 degrees. My teammates thought I was crazy but I’ve never felt more alive.”

The race was set off with a chequered flag
| Photo Credit:
Special arrangement

Race day dawned cold and grey but soon had the sun and clouds contend for dominion over the scree slopes. The lake had frozen over and the run began with the wave of a chequered flag. For Amirtharaj, who clocked three hours and 10 minutes and dedicated the run to his children, the first 10 kilometres was easy. The second round was more a battle of the mind. “I wore no cleats. I ran in my sneakers and also managed to convince a coursemate, Major Vivek AR to run. And there was my buddy too. Suddenly, it became a friendship run. You had the option to slow down into a walk but to keep running without stopping was my win, more than completing the race itself,” says Amirtharaj.