A voyage from Paris to Hangzhou (#1684346)

After 15 years, Chanel has once again decided to present its new Métiers d’Art collection in China.

Unveiled at nightfall in the enchanting landscape of West Lake, the Chanel 2024/25 Métiers d’Art collection embarked on a dreamlike journey from Paris to Hangzhou. Set in this historic city and modern tech hub, the collection drew inspiration from antique Coromandel screens—treasured objects of intimacy and artistry in Chinese lacquer that Gabrielle Chanel adored and surrounded herself with.

Just before the show on the picturesque West Lake, Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion at Chanel and president of Chanel SAS, told FashionNetwork.com that these investments extend beyond China, focusing on elevating the overall client experience globally.

This year, Chanel has hosted three major events in China, beginning in July. The “Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto” exhibition opened at the Power Station of Art (PSA) in Shanghai on July 12, followed by the 2024/2025 Cruise show in Hong Kong on November 5. (The collection was first shown in May, in the South of France). Last Tuesday, on December 3, the new Métiers d’Art 2024/2025 collection was presented in Hangzhou. The frequency and scale of these events highlight Chanel’s strategic focus and ambition in the Chinese market. 

“In the past years, after the Covid crisis, we have had exceptional business results in China and we have been able to recruit new clients. It is important for us to reach out to our local clients and to offer them great brand experiences and especially in the boutiques,” Pavlovsky recalled.

“The ‘Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto’ exhibition is the first retrospective devoted to the work of Gabrielle Chanel in China. It was quite interesting for us to connect our Chinese customers with the work of Mademoiselle Chanel.  In the past, we have held several replicas shows in China: in Chengdu in 2017, in Shenzhen in 2023, and this year, the replica of the last Cruise collection in Hong Kong. Our aim with these replica shows is to focus on our local clients and to offer them very special experiences; and it is always a success.” 

This year, the house chose to present its new Métiers d’Art collection in Hangzhou. For that show, Chanel invited around 1,100 guests—including clients, influencers, and industry professionals. Around 40% of the attendees travelled from across the globe, reaffirming the essential role of travelling shows for the house. 

Chanel curated a unique experience for its guests, showcasing the paradoxical blend of tradition and modernity that defines Hangzhou.  

The whole collection exuded a unique energy, revisiting Gabrielle Chanel’s creative world, her signature style, and her profound inspirations, brought to life through the exceptional craftsmanship of the Maisons d’Art gathered at le19M.

Long, shouldered coats for day and night, in precious tweeds, satin, velvet or embroidered with little flowers, were enveloping, and imbued with mystery. The silkiness of the pockets, pagoda sleeves, mandarin collars and phosphorescent braids embroidered by Atelier Montex radiates with gentle luminescence. A refined luxury and meticulous detailing, both visible and hidden.

“The collection is inspired by Chinese Coromandel screens, that were part of Gabrielle Chanel’s creative universe.  Also, it is important to mention that Chanel uses the finest silk, which mainly comes from Hangzhou and other regions in China. Besides, when we are in Hangzhou, we truly feel and appreciate the essence of craftsmanship.  The collection also reflects the unique energy and transformation happening here,” Pavlovsky said.

The house also invited Xin Zhilei, Chinese actress and Chanel’s ambassador, to immerse herself in Hangzhou’s rich artisanal culture. She met with local artisans and artists, including Jin Jiahong, a provincial inheritor of Hangzhou’s embroidery heritage, the century-old silk workshop Du Jinsheng, and Xin Qi, a renowned designer from the China Academy of Art. 

Despite the slowing economic growth forecast in China, many luxury brands are shifting focus to new markets in search of business growth. Chanel is aiming to keep increasing business in China and providing the best services in the boutiques. Currently, the brand has fashion boutiques in 12 cities across China, which, according to Pavlovsky, is fewer than other competitors.

“And yet we still have a lot to do. We were able to recruit a lot of new clients after the Covid period, and we need to keep engaging them. We will continue our efforts to remain the ultimate luxury house. China is a very important market for us and we believe that we still have a lot of things to develop here.”

Chanel strengthens its connection with local clients through fashion shows, cultural events, and other initiatives, enabling the brand to maintain its growth edge and continue to attract the loyalty of VIC (very important clients) in the highly competitive luxury market.

In the end, Pavlovsky concluded, “We’re looking forward to next year, that will bring significant changes, but we’ll keep focusing on our clients and offering them special brand experiences. This is something that’s extremely important to us. We will remain connected to  our clients, in China and across the world.  For us, it’s crucial that we keep focusing on our fundamentals while providing the best client experience.”