Kering warns on annual 2024 operating profit as Gucci sales fall

French luxury goods group Kering warned on Wednesday its full-year operating income would almost halve after reporting a larger-than-expected drop in third quarter sales, as weak demand in China deepened the struggles of its main label Gucci.

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Revenue for the group which also owns fashion brands Saint Laurent, Balenciaga and Bottega Veneta, was 3.79 billion euros ($4.08 billion), a 16% decline on an organic basis.

The figure was worse than an analyst consensus estimate of an 11% decline, according to a Barclays note.
Kering said its 2024 recurring operating income could be about 2.5 billion euros, following the larger-than-expected slowdown in the third quarter, compared with 4.75 billion euros a year earlier.

Kering’s warning comes as the luxury sector suffers a slowdown, with luxury bellwether LVMH last week missing expectations and flagging a drop in Chinese consumer confidence to Covid-era lows, with a deterioration in demand for high end fashion over the quarter.

Sales at Gucci, which accounts for half of annual group sales and two-thirds of profit, continued to slide and were down 25% in the quarter, compared to analysts’ consensus expectations for a 21% decline.

“We are executing a far-reaching transformation of the group, and at Gucci in particular, at a time when the whole luxury sector faces unfavourable market conditions,” Kering Chair and CEO Francois Henri Pinault said in a statement.

Kering has been managing a broad overhaul of the century-old Italian fashion house, rebuilding top executive teams and introducing a new streamlined design style under the artistic direction of Sabato de Sarno, while pushing the products upmarket.

The group said in a statement that the overhaul of Gucci’s leather goods category, with the introduction of a host of new products late in the quarter, was well underway.

Earlier this month, it named Stefano Cantino as CEO effective from January, replacing longtime Kering executive Jean-Francois Palus who held the role for an interim period since last year.