Late night dancing after swish show

Most people tend to slow down when they get to 90. Not Giorgio Armani, who staged a swish colorful Emporio show Thursday night and feted the collection with a rockin’ party.

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His invitation, set, catwalk and backdrop were all in black and white, and the collection was too, before exploding into a dazzling array of color at the finale. 
 
His opening was pretty classic Emporio – Indian rajah pants, Nehru collar jackets, vests, dhotis and skullcaps in a palette between ecru and palest putty. A couple of years ago during the streetwear obsession these would have seemed passé. But now in the era of ever so quiet luxury, they felt hypnotic and brilliant.

Gradually, he injected Asian floral patterns and accessories, straw bonnets, coolie’s pants, Mao shirts. It’s often forgotten how much the world’s largest continent has influenced Armani, and how well. In a sense, just like Bill Clinton is sometimes termed the first black American president because of his upbringing in a predominantly African American neighborhood, so Armani should be considered one of the greatest Asian designers.
 
In a co-ed show, Giorgio sent out great, billowing men’s suits with multi-pleat wide pockets. Again – a look which current tastes have made very hip again.  Many of them in ecru or white, just like the lovely invitation and backdrop, a 2000 campaign photo of a tender beauty with waxed back hair that was quintessentially Emporio.
 
All applauded by a front row that included Italian singer of the moment Achille Lauro; singer-songwriter Khalid; willowy actress Sveva Alviti; ‘The Thicket star’ Esmé Creed-Miles; Zhou Yutong, the new female face of the Emporio watches and accessories; Brazilian soccer legend and Armani campaign star Kaká with his beautiful wife Carolina Dias. Plus, six Italian gold medalists from the Paris Olympics. 

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At the finale, Armani emerged from a phalanx of models to take a joint bow with his sister Silvana and closest confidant Leo Dell’Orco. To thunderous applause the trio were then joined by Nicola Lamorgese, head of design for Emporio Armani menswear, and Marco Brunello, head of design for womenswear, who between them have worked with Armani for over a half-century.
 
Who, when one thinks about it given their key role in Armani’s remarkable influence on fashion these past decades, need to be regarded as among of the best designers in the world. Now, one can think of scores of designers with a quarter of Armani’s talent who would never dream of sharing an ovation. But Giorgio, in the still fertile winter of his life, can proudly share his podium.
 
In a busy week, Armani also reopened his revamped and historic Emporio flagship on shopping mecca Via Sant’Andrea, plastering hundreds of Milan bus stops and billboards with the news. Not bad going for a guy who just entered his tenth decade. This is one champion not ready to leave the ring.