the three rising stars of Milan Fashion Week

Alongside the established fashion houses, the next generation of Italian labels took the opportunity to make their mark on the Milanese catwalks over the weekend. Three emerging labels, namely Magliano, Jordanluca, and Federico Cina, have been steadily asserting themselves in recent seasons, and their Spring/Summer 2024 collections were nothing short of captivating. Each designer showcased their unique style through inventive collections and distinctive visions.
 

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Luca Magliano, the recipient of the prestigious Karl Lagerfeld prize at the LVMH competition for his label Magliano, chose a construction site as the backdrop for his show. It served as a symbol of ongoing progress and the need to “keep moving forward to avoid falling,” as the designer expressed. He takes great pride in winning the prize and believes it has shed “some light on our community,” referring to the queer-libertarian world that his label has embodied since its inception. In this fragile world, there are moments of respite, represented in his collection by ephemeral head coverings such as turbans or handkerchiefs tied in four corners, providing “a roof over our heads.”

This season, Magliano’s fashion exuded a newfound tranquility, revealing itself in a different light with a touch of glamour. A jacket revealed a silk embroidered lining cascading down the back, while models draped themselves in swaths of silk enveloping their shoulders and torsos. Bomber jackets and work shirts were transformed into chic stoles, while some boldly embraced transparent lace tops, boa scarves, or even vests made of chains and gold coins. Luxurious silk-printed T-shirts retained Luca Magliano’s signature ironic flair, featuring diagonal prints with words like “Miss Magliano” as a nod to his recent LVMH prize or an island paradise shaped like a vagina on a T-shirt worn by a woman, as a tribute to “our sisters who fought countless battles before us,” as explained by Magliano.

Underneath Luca Magliano’s rough bad-boy exterior lies an inherent elegance. Whether donning oversized deconstructed jackets that gracefully drape or exquisite pleated and drawstring trousers, ultrafine knitted sweaters, or beautifully tailored shirts, every piece is impeccably cut from superb fabrics crafted in Italian ateliers.

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This season, JordanLuca brought back its signature elements, from rose stem kilts with sharp thorns to double-collared shirts, taking them to the extreme. Just like the women’s line, introduced last season, the label continues to push boundaries and grow. Founded in London in 2018 by Jordan Bowen from England and Luca Marchetto from Italy, the couture streetwear label has also expanded its universe to include internally created eyewear and jewelry.

Building on the rose stem motif, JordanLuca crafted oversized bracelets and necklaces, adorned with exaggerated thorns, encircling necks and wrists. Marchetto revealed backstage that these accessories were “3D-printed silver made by ourselves.” Remaining true to the label’s slightly subversive punk spirit, other notable accessories included sharp pins piercing earlobes, jacket wrists serving as cufflinks, and mule sandals with heels that plunge into the top of the foot, resurfacing beneath the sole.

As with every collection, JordanLuca continued to experiment with kilts. They were reimagined as pencil dresses or transformed into gowns, with characteristic pleats adorning elongated sleeves, blazers, jackets, and draped vests. The collection also showcased the brand’s distinctive “bulldog” silhouette, featuring slightly rounded shoulders and upper back, with the front of jackets or shirts leaning forward, and collars shifting toward one shoulder where the tie finds its place. This season, the tie was worn backwards, proudly displaying the label and lining. The brand also presented a series of oversized tailored pants.

For women, JordanLuca accentuated their sexy glamour with satin or transparent lace dresses, leaving one arm bare while adorning the other with a long latex glove. The same material was used to create a draped dress that exuded an unexpected lightness. Distributed by the Riccardo Grassi showroom, the brand has successfully captured the attention of over 70 multi-brand retailers.
 

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Federico Cina once again paid tribute to his native region, Emilia-Romagna, which was devastated by massive floods in April last year. In his collection named Terra, Cina celebrated the rural land of his ancestors and childhood memories spent in the countryside. He presented his collection as a sensory experience, providing each guest with an apple to bite into during the show. The aim was for them to “see, listen, and savor,” as summarized by the eponymous designer.

The show opened with a barefoot male model wearing shorts, circling the runway while holding a stack of fruit crates. Shortly after, a young woman, clad in simple white cotton trousers, walked across the space with her chest concealed by an enormous sheaf of wheat. Another model, completely nude, shielded himself with a towel featuring an image of a young boy from bygone days in the fields. The designer sought to establish a connection between the human body and nature, celebrating the labor of farmers.

The center stage was covered in dry, ochre earth, leaving marks on bodies and clothing. These distinctive marks included orange streaks on shirts or darker edges on shirt-and-pants ensembles, creating an impression of being soiled by the soil itself. Cina crafted garments from linen, hemp, or lightweight crumpled cotton, preserving their natural colors. Comfort and freshness permeated the collection, with deconstructed suits, oversized double-breasted jackets and pants cinched with drawstrings. Handwoven cotton ribbons were meticulously braided to create pullovers, while fringed macramé bags in jute-like hues completed the collection.